On board one of the most eco-friendly luxury cruise ships in the world

It may not be the largest and also not the most expensive cruise ship on the ocean, but the MS Europa 2 is one of the most luxurious cruise ships ever built, receiving 1864 out of 2000 possible points in the Berlitz Cruise Guide. But how elegant is it onboard? And how expensive? I boarded the ship in Bordeaux (France) to find out.

Upon arrival, each guest is taken to their suite by a crew member. On the way there, they receive hot towels, their first glass of champagne and a Tuna-Sashimi with black sesame snack. This is served in a light-filled, modern lobby with a 13-foot-high ceiling, a bright carpet, a grand piano, and a luxurious bar.

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My first impression is this: There is no dark wood, no dark carpets, and no portholes. Everywhere you look, there are muted colors, exquisite fabrics, lots of glass, stainless steel and light wood. There’s even modern art on the walls. The cruise is like a floating gallery that showcases real works of art — it even has Bauhaus patterns on the carpets on the way to the suites.

Luxury suites boast outdoor whirlpools, rain showers and the best views of the ocean

There are no cabins onboard, but 251 suites that come in seven different types, depending on price. I’ve been booked in the smallest room, but even this is 300 square feet in size (with an additional 75-square-foot balcony), with a double bed, large sitting area, walk-in wardrobe, rain shower, flat-screen TV, minibar and Nespresso coffee machine. One hour of the internet a day is also included.

The biggest suites, located at the bow, measure up to 1065 square feet, with an additional 160-square-foot balcony. Many suites have a whirlpool (some with a sea view), and some even have a sauna. Six butlers take care of the well-being of the guests in the three most expensive rooms. All balconies are designed and built in a way that the deckchairs with the best view of the ocean can be placed perpendicular to the railing.

The MS Europa 2 is also one of the most environmentally-friendly cruise ships

The ship takes on 35 knots of wind, and thrashing high waves — and yet I slept like a baby. “The hull was built so that stabilizers prevent the ship from rolling around,” the captain, Christian van Swamen tells me.

The MS Europa 2 also happens to be the first cruise ship with a catalytic converter and is considered to be one of the most environmentally friendly ships in the world, according to the German Nature and Biodiversity Conservation Union. “We are as clean as a Euro 6 diesel,” says the van Swamen.

The captain’s greatest perk to the job is owning his own balcony on the starboard side of his ship, where he can relax up to one hour every day.

Another great feature to the ship is the amount of space it has. “There is an equivalent of 893 square feet of space per passenger,” explains hotel manager Frank Neumann proudly. “There is no other ship that has that. Even if the MSE2 is fully booked with a maximum of 516 passengers, it doesn’t feel crowded.”

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This can especially be noticed in the two-story atrium which holds free loungers and a 15-foot-long pool (the glass roof above it can be closed at any time in case of bad weather).

Passengers like spending, but do it discreetly

Those who spend their holidays on board the MSE2 are wealthy (the average price is $700 a night per person although children up to 11 years can travel free of charge in their parents’ suite), but do not show it. The atmosphere is relaxed and nobody is complaining.

I visited the ship during the peak vacation months and there were many families on board. But even though children’s laughter echoed over the pool deck, nobody felt disturbed. “On the contrary,” an 82-year-old pensioner tells me, “it’s nice to have children on board. It makes me feel younger.” In the corridors and elevators, you’re always greeted as well.

Luxury is still enjoyed, but discreetly: in the display glass of the onboard jewelry store there are watches costing up to $33,000.

During the day, you see a lot of jeans and polo shirts and even in the evening, it’s surprisingly casual. Tuxedo’s and evening dresses, captains’ dinners and gala evenings — all these events are no longer done on the “MS Europa 2”. For dinner, a jacket can be worn, but a good 40 percent of male passengers do without it. “I wear a suit to work all year round,” says a businessman at the table next to me, “I don’t want to be forced to wear a jacket on my holidays.”

From chateaubriand steak to lobster lasagna; 56 chefs provide a culinary experience unheard of on any other cruise ship

“We never say ‘no’ on board,” says hotel manager Neumann. “If a guest wants a chateaubriand steak at night, they can get it grilled and delivered to their suite in under an hour. If they want to eat sea snails? Then we get them in the next harbor we stop by. But if you have special requests, like a particular whiskey from Japan, we might need a little more time to get it for you.” Whatever you request, the 370 crew members on board are always there to help — that is 1 crew member for every 1.3 passengers.

“If you are on board with us for 14 days, you can gain up to five kilos,” warns cruise director David Wilms at the beginning of the trip. It won’t be so bad, I thought to myself. But soon, I realized I couldn’t help but eat everything in sight. But who wouldn’t, if you have prawns with scrambled eggs for breakfast and a fillet of beef, scallops, and truffle tagliatelle in the buffet-style restaurant Marina for lunch.

In the evening, I have a choice between artistically-decorated sushi variations in the Japanese restaurant Sakura, or lobster lasagne and ox cheeks with red wine shallots at the fine dining Italian restaurant Serenissima. There is also tartar, turbot, and crème brûlée prepared in the French bistro-style restaurant Tarragon.

No matter where you look, the food is amazing. The Italian head chef, Willy Leitgeb and his team of 56 chefs and 14 waiters ensure a culinary experience that is unlike anything you can find on a cruise ship. “Oysters, lobster, turbot and fillet of beef never gets old here,” says Leitgeb. And for the record, in just five days I gained two kilos.

Every day, 3.5 tonnes of goods are delivered on deck. Perishable goods like berries and flowers are flown in or bought locally. Chefs are always on the lookout for fresh fish, seafood or oysters and often go ashore to shop at markets. And when guests express a desire for rare and exquisite Bordeaux wines, head sommelier Markus Alegre leaves the ship to go shopping in some of the best stories in the world.

When I accompany him to a wine shop, we end up with 17 bottles of wine worth $6220. We pay in cash. The caviar has its own warehouse on board and there are only two keys: one belongs to the manager, the other the head chef.

While the price of catering food every day is very high, the beverage prices surprise me. They are lower than on land: a beer straight from the barrel is $4, a glass of wine from $3.40, and cocktails are roughly $6.60.

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The restaurants are now closed, the show is over, and my five days at sea have sadly come to an end. Smokers and gin lovers (there are 53 sorts of gin, by the way, starting at $4.40) will still be chatting at the bar, while live music plays in the jazz club opposite.

Four decks higher, a DJ is playing his music — it’s Abba night. Some passengers are dancing, white wine and gin & tonic is flowing. A steward hands out sausages and pizza under the starry sky. Luxury can be so simple.